The Petmeetly rabbit adoption guide
Most rabbit adoptions on Petmeetly happen between people. One family can no longer keep their rabbit. Maybe they are moving, or a new baby is allergic, or the kids lost interest. A smaller number of listings come from partner shelters and rabbit rescues. Either way, you talk straight to the people who know the rabbit.
Buying a baby rabbit from a pet store means starting from zero. The rabbit has not been fixed (spay or neuter). It has had no vaccines. It is not litter trained. When you adopt instead, the family before you has often done all of that. You meet a grown rabbit with a known personality, at a much lower cost.
This guide focuses on adult rabbits. Most rabbits listed on Petmeetly are adults. We point out where young rabbits need different care.
Contents
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7 parts
Contents
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Should I adopt a rabbit?
Rabbits look like easy pets. They are not. They live a long time, break easily, and need more care than most new owners expect. Adopting from a current family is one good way to start. The family rehoming the rabbit has a reason. They can tell you what to expect.
Honest check 1
Lifespan: 8 to 12 years
An indoor rabbit usually lives 8 to 12 years. Some live longer. The House Rabbit Society primer walks through the numbers. Many families give up their rabbit because they did not plan for a full decade. When you adopt, you finish what they started.House Rabbit Society: How to Care for a Pet Rabbit
Honest check 2
Space: a pen, not a cage
Rabbits need at least 4 hours a day to hop around a safe room. The rest of the day they live in an exercise pen (also called an x-pen) of at least 12 to 16 square feet. Small wire cages are no longer recommended. See the House Rabbit Society pages on pens as the modern housing choice and indoor living being best for rabbits.House Rabbit Society: Pens, the Modern Housing PreferenceHouse Rabbit Society: Indoor Living Is Best for Rabbits
Honest check 3
Time: rabbits move slow
In the wild, rabbits are food for bigger animals (this is what people mean by a prey animal). So they scare easily. They do not like being picked up. They jump at loud noises. They warm up to you by sitting near you, not by being held. A home with small kids, many dogs, or constant noise is a hard fit. The ASPCA general rabbit care page says rabbits are not good first pets for young children.ASPCA: General Rabbit Care
Honest check 4
Cost: $800 to $1,200 a year
The House Rabbit Society 2025 budget guide puts the yearly cost around $800 to $1,200. That covers hay, pellets, fresh greens, litter, pen parts, rabbit hemorrhagic disease vaccine (RHDV2) boosters, and yearly checkups with a rabbit vet. Emergency vet visits cost more. Look at your budget before you message a listing.House Rabbit Society: Caring for a Rabbit on a Budget (2025)
Adopting an adult vs. buying a baby
A baby rabbit from a pet store has no vet history. It has not been fixed (spay or neuter). It is not litter trained. You do not know its personality. A grown rabbit listed on Petmeetly often has all of that already done. The family before you paid $200 to $400 for fixing, the first RHDV2 vaccine, and months of patient litter training. A rehoming fee is often $25 to $100. The numbers usually point to adoption.
Two questions to ask yourself. Can I give a rabbit 8 to 12 years, 4 hours of free-roam time a day, a vet who knows rabbits (exotic vet), and a calm home? If yes, adoption is a good fit. Am I hoping the rabbit will be a cuddly toy for a young child? If yes, slow down. Rabbits can be lovely family pets, but an adult has to take the lead. Kids learn to sit on the floor and let the rabbit come over.
Want to see what is listed now? Take a look at our Holland Lops listed for adoption page. Most are rehomed by their current family and arrive already pen-housed and litter trained. Reading the House Rabbit Society primer first saves false starts.House Rabbit Society: How to Care for a Pet Rabbit
Finding the right rabbit on Petmeetly
A rabbit listing on Petmeetly is the start of a conversation, not a checkout button. Most listings come from a family that raised the rabbit. A smaller number come from rabbit rescues. Both paths can lead to a good match when you know what to look for.
Main Petmeetly path
Owner-to-owner rehoming
A family is moving abroad. A new baby has allergies. An older child has lost interest. The current owner writes the listing, talks to you in chat, and hands the rabbit over. The big plus: you can ask about the rabbit's personality, litter habits, food likes, behavior with kids and other pets, and vet history. The move is easier because the rabbit goes straight from one home to another.
Institutional path
Partner rescue or shelter
A smaller number of listings come from rabbit rescue groups and humane societies that use Petmeetly as one of their listing places. The House Rabbit Society rescue groups directory shows what a real rescue looks like. These adoptions take a bit longer. You fill out a form and answer some questions. The plus side: the rescue has usually paid for fixing (spay or neuter), the RHDV2 vaccine, and a basic vet checkup.House Rabbit Society: Rabbit Rescue Groups
Special listing type
Two rabbits as a pair (bonded pair)
A bonded pair is two rabbits that have lived together for years. Both are usually already fixed. The listing should say clearly that they cannot be split. You take both. A pair can be easier than a single rabbit because they keep each other company. The House Rabbit Society bonding FAQ covers what a real bond looks like.House Rabbit Society: Bonding Rabbits FAQ
Reading a listing well: seven things to look for
A good listing tells you seven things. The rabbit's name and rough age. Sex, and whether the rabbit is fixed (spayed or neutered). Breed, or mixed-breed if not sure. Whether the RHDV2 vaccine has been given. What the rabbit eats day to day. Whether it is litter trained. Why the family is rehoming. A listing missing a few items may just be a short writer. A listing missing all of these is worth skipping.
Filter by what matters. Filter by age first. An adult rabbit (1 year or older) has a settled personality and steady habits. A young rabbit needs more training time. Filter by sex if you already have a rabbit at home. The House Rabbit Society bonding FAQ says opposite-sex pairs are often the easiest to bond, though all three combinations can work. Filter by location too. Long car rides are stressful, so shorter trips are kinder.House Rabbit Society: Bonding Rabbits FAQ
Browse by breed. The breed grid lower on this page lists the most common rabbits on Petmeetly. Holland Lops and Mini Lops are the popular pet breeds in North America. Netherland Dwarfs are the smallest. New Zealands and Flemish Giants are bigger and calmer. American and Dutch breeds are middle-sized classics. Check the Lionheads listed for adoption, Mini Rex listed for adoption, and Rex listed for adoption pages to see the range. Breed is a hint, not a promise. Each rabbit has its own personality.
When two listings catch your eye, message both. The first owner will ask about your home setup. The second may take a day to reply. Talking to two owners at once is fine. Just be honest, and close the second chat when the first turns out to be the right fit. The House Rabbit Society rehoming guide explains what owners look for. That is useful background for adopters too.House Rabbit Society: Finding a Home for an Unwanted Rabbit
If buying a young rabbit from a breeder still feels right after reading this, our rabbits for sale page covers that path. Petmeetly supports both.
What rabbit adoption costs in 2026
A rehoming fee is not a price tag. It is a check that the new home is serious. It also helps the family get back some of what they spent at the vet. Petmeetly does not charge any adoption fee. Whether the current owner asks for a small fee is something to talk through in chat.
| Path | Typical fee (USD) |
|---|---|
| Petmeetly owner-to-owner rehoming | Discuss with owner |
| Municipal shelter | $20–75 |
| Private 501(c)(3) rabbit rescue | $75–150 |
| Pet store (for comparison) | $40–150 plus vet catch-up |
Typical fees on Petmeetly. A healthy adult rabbit is often $25 to $100. Senior rabbits (7 years or older), rabbits with special needs, and bonded pairs often go for less, or the fee is waived. A rabbit that was just fixed (spayed or neutered) and given a fresh RHDV2 vaccine sits at the top of the range. That family paid $250 to $500 in vet bills before listing.
Shelter and rescue fees. City shelters usually charge $20 to $75 to adopt a rabbit. Private rabbit rescues (the kind set up as a 501(c)(3) nonprofit) usually charge $75 to $150. Both fees usually cover fixing (spay or neuter), the first RHDV2 shots, and a basic vet checkup. The fee mostly pays back the rescue for the vet work.
Pet stores cost more in the end. A pet-store rabbit costs $40 to $150 to buy. You still need to pay $200 to $500 to get it fixed. You will also spend weeks litter training a young rabbit on your own. So the cost picture often points to adoption.
The first-year cost picture (where the real money is)
The House Rabbit Society 2025 budget guide puts the yearly cost around $800 to $1,200. The biggest lines are hay (the largest), pellets, fresh greens, litter, pen and pen parts, RHDV2 booster shots, and yearly vet checkups.House Rabbit Society: Caring for a Rabbit on a Budget (2025)
Year one usually costs more. You have one-time setup: pen, gates, litterboxes, hay racks, water bowls (rabbits drink more from open bowls than bottles), small hide boxes, and rabbit-safe room supplies. Plan for $300 to $500 in extra setup costs.
Emergency vet bills are the wild card
When a rabbit's gut slows down or stops (GI stasis), tests and overnight care can cost $300 to $1,500 if caught early. Catching it late costs more. Dental work for teeth that grow wrong (malocclusion) can run $300 to $800 a session, and may need to be repeated. Pet insurance for rabbits exists but is hit or miss. A safer plan is a rabbit emergency fund of $500 to $1,000.
Hidden costs. A vet who knows rabbits (exotic vet, sometimes called an exotic mammal vet) charges $75 to $150 for a routine visit. Emergency visits run $150 to $400. The House Rabbit Society guide on finding a rabbit-savvy vet is a useful place to start. In many areas the nearest rabbit vet is an hour away. That drive is its own cost, especially at 9pm.House Rabbit Society: How to Find a Rabbit-Savvy Vet
Two questions on fees. Does the rehoming fee match what the owner spent at the vet? If yes, the fee makes sense. Am I ready for year-one costs to be 10 to 20 times the rehoming fee? If yes, your budget is honest.
Bringing your rabbit home
The first few weeks are about safety, not bonding. Rabbits worry first about staying safe. Because they are prey in the wild, that means staying hidden. The 3-3-3 rule for new pets works for rabbits too, just on a slower clock.
Setup card 1
Set up a safe space before pickup
Base camp is the rabbit's safe space for the first 2 or 3 weeks. Set up an exercise pen at least 4 feet by 4 feet. Make it taller if the rabbit can jump. On one side, put a hay rack with fresh hay topped up at all times. Next to it, place a heavy water bowl and a small pellet dish. On the other side, set a corner litterbox. Rabbits usually pick the corner away from food. Add one hideaway, like a covered box or a cardboard tunnel, so the rabbit can disappear when it needs to. The House Rabbit Society page on pens covers the full setup.House Rabbit Society: Pens, the Modern Housing Preference
Setup card 2
Make the room rabbit-safe
Rabbits chew, dig, and explore. They love cords, baseboards, and houseplants. Wrap every cord in hard plastic spiral wrap or PVC tubing, or move it out of reach. Block the gaps behind appliances and furniture. Move out any houseplants that could be toxic. The House Rabbit Society hazards list names the common ones. Lay a cheap runner rug over hardwood floors. Rabbits slip on smooth floors, and slipping causes injuries. A Saturday of prep saves a year of vet bills.House Rabbit Society: Top 10 Bunny Dangers
The slower 3-3-3 for rabbits
The 3-3-3 rule is a simple way to think about settling in. A new pet adjusts over three days, three weeks, and three months. Rabbits move slower than dogs or cats. They read every new sound and smell as a possible threat. Some shy rabbits take up to six months to fully settle. That is normal.
- First 3 days
Hidden, watching, eating at night
The rabbit hides. It eats and uses the litterbox at night. It bolts when you walk by. On arrival, open the carrier inside the pen and step away. The rabbit will hop out when ready, usually within an hour. Do not chase. Do not pick the rabbit up. Do not have visitors over. In the morning, check the litterbox for poop pellets and check the water level. That tells you the rabbit ate overnight. No poop pellets for 12 hours is a vet emergency, covered in Chapter 5. Speak softly. Sit on the floor across the room.
- First 3 weeks
Learning the routine, picking favorite spots
The rabbit picks favorite spots. It comes out for greens. It stops bolting when you walk by. Start short, calm free-roam sessions in the rabbit-safe room. Leave the pen door open. Sit on the floor with a treat like cilantro, parsley, or basil. Let the rabbit come to you. Do not chase. Many rabbits walk up to a calm person within 2 weeks. By week 3 the rabbit usually has its own napping spots and daily routine.
- First 3 months
Settled, binkying, flopping near you
The rabbit binkies. That is a happy sideways jump, sometimes with a head shake. It means the rabbit feels safe. The rabbit also flops on its side near you, which is a sign of trust. It starts coming up to you on its own. That is the time to give more free-roam time and less pen time. Many rabbits get there in 4 to 8 weeks. For shy rabbits, six months is normal.
Pickup day. Bring a carrier that opens from the top. Rabbits do not like being pulled forward through a side door. Line the carrier with a towel and a handful of the rabbit's current hay. The familiar smell helps. Drive home gently. Rabbits get carsick easily. At home, set the open carrier inside the pen and step away.
Other pets at home need slow intros. If you have another rabbit, the bond takes weeks or months. The House Rabbit Society bonding FAQ and bonding-with-your-rabbit guide walk through the steps. If you have a dog, it needs to learn the rabbit is family, not prey. Plan to keep them apart with a baby gate for at least the first month, with all visits supervised. Cats are often the easiest, but a cat's hunting drive matters. Watch closely before letting them share space.House Rabbit Society: Bonding Rabbits FAQHouse Rabbit Society: Bonding With Your Rabbit
When to give more space. A rabbit that binkies, stands tall on its back legs to look around (this is called periscoping), and flops on its side near you is settled. That is your sign to give more free-roam time and shrink the pen.
First-week health and the rabbit-savvy vet
A first-week vet visit is important. Rabbits hide illness until the last minute. That is a habit from being prey in the wild. A first visit catches problems before they become emergencies.
Find a rabbit-savvy vet before pickup. Not every vet treats rabbits often. A rabbit-savvy vet, also called an exotic vet, has training in small mammal care and sees rabbits all the time. The House Rabbit Society directory of rabbit-savvy vets and the guide on how to pick one are good places to start. The Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians keeps a member list at aemv.org. In rural areas, the closest rabbit vet may be a 30 to 90 minute drive.House Rabbit Society: Find a Vet DirectoryHouse Rabbit Society: How to Find a Rabbit-Savvy VetAssociation of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians
Book the first visit for day 5 to 7. Earlier is too soon. The rabbit is still settling. Later may miss a tooth or parasite problem caused by the move. Day 5 to 7 is the usual window.
The 6 vet checks at the first visit
Teeth check
Rabbit teeth never stop growing. If the top and bottom teeth do not line up (malocclusion), the teeth grow too long. The rabbit cannot eat, and surgery is needed. The vet looks at the front teeth and uses a scope on the back teeth.
Ear check
Lop-eared breeds (Holland Lop, Mini Lop, English Lop) get ear infections more often. Their ear canals do not drain well. The vet checks for redness, gunk, or a tilted head.
Nail check
Long nails curl into the foot pads and cause raw, sore feet (sore hocks). The vet trims them and shows you how. Plan to trim every 4 to 8 weeks.
Belly and chin check
The loose fold of skin under the chin is called the dewlap. It is larger in females (does). The vet feels the belly for lumps, gas, or sludge in the bladder.
Poop check
The vet looks at a fresh poop sample. Healthy poop pellets are round, dark brown, and dry. They should all look about the same. Small, odd-shaped, or chained-together pellets point to a gut problem, or not enough water.
Water check
The vet pinches the skin on the back. Healthy skin snaps right back. The vet also checks the gums and the eyes for dryness.
GI stasis: the rabbit emergency to know
GI stasis is short for gastrointestinal stasis. It means the rabbit's gut has slowed down or stopped. It is the most common rabbit emergency. Without treatment, it can be fatal in hours. The VCA Animal Hospitals page and the House Rabbit Society guide on GI stasis go into detail.
Watch for these early signs: less or no appetite, fewer or smaller poop pellets, a hunched posture, teeth grinding from belly pain, and being unusually still. If you see any of these together, call your rabbit vet the same day. Many vet offices have an after-hours line for exotic pets. Save the number now, before you need it.
What helps prevent GI stasis: hay always in the pen, daily exercise, fresh water, and a calm home. The House Rabbit Society pages on keeping your rabbit healthy and Is Your Rabbit Sick are worth saving in your bookmarks.
VCA Animal Hospitals: Gastrointestinal Stasis in RabbitsHouse Rabbit Society: GI Stasis, the Silent KillerHouse Rabbit Society: Keeping Your Rabbit HealthyHouse Rabbit Society: Is Your Rabbit Sick?
RHDV2 vaccine
Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus type 2 (RHDV2) is a virus that spreads fast and is usually fatal. It showed up in US rabbits around 2020. By 2025 it had reached 29 US states and is now common in the West. The House Rabbit Society RHDV2 page and the medical overview cover the current US picture. The Medgene Labs vaccine is now available. It is a 2-shot first series, followed by a yearly booster. The House Rabbit Society recommends the vaccine for every rabbit.House Rabbit Society: RHDV2 OverviewHouse Rabbit Society: Medical Overview
If your new rabbit has not had the vaccine, book the first shots at the first or second vet visit. UK adopters: the standard vaccine combo there covers RHDV1, RHDV2, and myxomatosis (another fatal virus, mostly spread by biting insects). The Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund rabbit health page is the UK reference.Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund: Rabbit Health
Other first-month items. Fix the rabbit (spay or neuter) if it is not already fixed. Most rehomes will be done. Some pet-store rabbits will not be. The House Rabbit Society page on spay and neuter explains why this is part of normal medical care. Get a microchip if the rabbit does not have one, especially if there is any chance of an outdoor escape.House Rabbit Society: Spay and Neuter for Bunny Love
When to call the vet between visits
- Same-day call: no eating or drinking for 12 hours. No poop pellets for 12 hours. A tilted head. Breathing through the mouth (rabbits only breathe through the nose, so this is a clear sign something is wrong). A seizure. Sudden trouble using the back legs.
- Next-day call: soft poop or no poop, but the rabbit is still eating. A runny eye or nose for more than 24 hours. Scratching at ears. A small drop in appetite for more than 24 hours.
Ongoing care, diet, and behavior
After the first month, life with a rabbit settles into a steady rhythm. The rabbit knows the house. The rabbit knows the routine. The rabbit knows you. Three things need attention from here on: diet, behavior, and (if you have one) the bond with a second rabbit.
The 80/10/5/5 rabbit diet
Rabbit groups and vets agree on the basic diet. The House Rabbit Society diet page, VCA Animal Hospitals on feeding your rabbit, and the Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund on how to feed rabbits all line up.House Rabbit Society: DietVCA Animal Hospitals: Feeding Your RabbitRabbit Welfare Association and Fund: How to Feed Rabbits
- 80%Grass hay (unlimited)
Keep hay in the pen at all times. Timothy hay for adults. Alfalfa hay (a richer hay, higher in calcium) only for young rabbits under 7 months and nursing mother rabbits. Alfalfa is too rich for adults.
- 10%Fresh leafy greens
Give greens every day. Safe choices: romaine, red leaf and green leaf lettuce, cilantro, parsley, basil, mint, dandelion greens, and carrot tops. Switch the type every few days. Skip iceberg lettuce, which is mostly water. Go light on spinach and kale because they have too much of a compound called oxalate.
- 5%Timothy-based pellets
Give about one-eighth to one-quarter cup of pellets a day, per 5 pounds of rabbit. Pick plain timothy-based pellets. Skip the colorful muesli mixes.
- 5%Treats (the small share)
Small pieces of fruit and fresh herbs work well. Skip yogurt drops, seed sticks, and other sugary store treats.
Hay is medicine. It does three things at once. It wears down the teeth, which never stop growing. It keeps the gut moving, which is the main way to prevent GI stasis from Chapter 5. It gives the rabbit something to chew, which prevents boredom and damage. The House Rabbit Society health page and the Rabbit Welfare hay and health page both put hay first.House Rabbit Society: HealthRabbit Welfare Association and Fund: Hay and Health
Fresh greens daily. A good amount is 2 to 3 cups of leafy greens a day, per 5 pounds of rabbit. Split it across two meals. The Rabbit Welfare rabbit care page lists safe greens.Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund: Rabbit Care
Read rabbit behavior
Rabbits do not bark or meow. They speak with their body. Learning the basics in the first month saves false alarms, and helps you spot the real problems.
- / 01
Binky
A happy sideways jump and twist, sometimes with a head shake. The rabbit feels safe. Seeing a binky means the adoption is going well.
- / 02
Periscoping
Standing tall on the back legs to look around. The rabbit is curious, not angry.
- / 03
Flop
The rabbit suddenly throws itself sideways onto the floor, sometimes with a thump. It looks scary, but it is normal. A flop means deep rest. A flop near you means trust.
- / 04
Thump
A loud thump from the back legs on the floor. It means alarm, anger, or "leave me alone." Look around for what set it off.
- / 05
Chinning
Rubbing the chin against furniture or other objects. The rabbit is leaving its scent and marking the space as its own.
- / 06
Loaf vs sprawl
A rabbit folded up like a loaf of bread is alert, or resting but ready. A rabbit stretched out with back legs straight is fully relaxed.
- / 07
Tooth purring
A soft, quick chatter from the front teeth, usually when you are petting the rabbit. It means the rabbit is happy.
- / 08
Tooth grinding
A slow, loud grinding from the teeth, sometimes called tooth crunching. It means pain. If you hear it, watch closely. Call the vet if it keeps going.
Bonding a second rabbit
Many people add a second rabbit after the first is settled. Two rabbits is often easier than one because they keep each other company. Bonding is slow. The House Rabbit Society bonding FAQ and bonding-with-your-rabbit guide walk through the steps. First, both rabbits need to be fixed (spayed or neutered). Wait at least 2 weeks after surgery for hormones to calm down. Then introduce them in a space neither has lived in. A bathtub, a different room, or a friend's house all work. Start with short sessions, several times a day, over weeks or months. Opposite-sex pairs often bond fastest. Same-sex pairs can work with patience. Do not rush. A bad first fight can stop a bond for life.House Rabbit Society: Bonding Rabbits FAQHouse Rabbit Society: Bonding With Your Rabbit
Litter habits. Most adult rabbits come already litter trained. Rabbits go in corners, and they pick the corner farthest from their food. Put the litterbox there. Use paper-based litter. Skip pine or cedar shavings, which release oils that hurt rabbit lungs. Add a handful of hay on top. Rabbits like to chew hay while using the litterbox. That is normal and healthy.
Spend time on the floor. One of the best ways to bond is to sit on the rabbit-safe floor for 20 to 30 minutes a day. Do your own thing. Let the rabbit explore around you. No agenda. No chasing. No expectation. The rabbit will come to you when it is ready. Our rabbit behavior blog goes deeper into body language.
When adoption does not work out
Most adoptions work. Some do not. That is part of the honest picture. Sometimes allergies show up after the first month. Sometimes life changes the household. Sometimes the rabbit and another pet do not bond. If things are not working, plan a careful exit early. Do not wait for a crisis.
First, talk to a vet or a rabbit behavior expert. Some “this is not working” stories have a fix. Litter accidents often come from a urinary tract infection (UTI), or the wrong shape of litterbox. Sudden biting or kicking often comes from pain. A failed bond with another pet often needs the slow steps from Chapter 4, run again from the start. The House Rabbit Society pages on keeping your rabbit healthy and the bonding FAQ are the first to read.House Rabbit Society: Keeping Your Rabbit HealthyHouse Rabbit Society: Bonding Rabbits FAQ
Plan B paths, in order of preference
Preference 1
Return to the original family
If the rehoming agreement said you could return the rabbit, contact the original family first. Many owners include this clause on purpose. They want a safety net for the rabbit they raised. Often life has settled down for them, and they can take the rabbit back.
Preference 2
Relist on Petmeetly
List the rabbit as a current owner. Write a full, honest post about the rabbit's age, personality, vet history, RHDV2 status, and why you are rehoming. Use the same checklist from Chapter 2. The House Rabbit Society rehoming guide and rehome page cover both the listing side and the screening side. Charge a small fee of $25 to $75. That filters out callers who are not serious. Ask for a video meet before pickup.House Rabbit Society: Finding a Home for an Unwanted RabbitHouse Rabbit Society: Rehoming Page
Preference 3
Contact a rescue
Local rabbit rescues take owner surrenders when they have room. Many are full, so expect a wait. The House Rabbit Society rescue groups directory is a good place to find a local one.House Rabbit Society: Rabbit Rescue Groups
Last resort
City animal shelter
Most city shelters take rabbits. Their small-pet space is often limited. Rabbit adoption rates at shelters are lower than for dogs or cats. It is a real path, not a forbidden one. We list it last because the rabbit is most stressed in a shelter, and the medical outcome is hardest to predict.
Hard stop
Do not release a pet rabbit outdoors.
A pet rabbit (any breed raised for people) cannot survive in the wild. Pet rabbits look like wild cottontails to predators, but they are not. They do not have a wild rabbit's instincts. They die quickly from predators, traffic, cold, parasites, and disease.
The House Rabbit Society page on this is direct: outdoor release is illegal in most places, hurts the local environment, and is cruel. If your home options are gone, every Plan B path above is a kinder choice. Outdoor release is not.House Rabbit Society: Never Abandon a Rabbit Outdoors
A note on guilt. Returning a rabbit after a month is hard. Returning a rabbit after a year is harder. The honest thing to know: a careful rehoming to a better-fit home is part of doing right by the rabbit, not a failure. The rabbit's well-being is what matters. Your guilt does not. Browse rabbits listed for adoption on Petmeetly. Read a few listings before you write your own.