The Petmeetly Cat and Kitten Buyer's Guide
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Should you buy a kitten or adopt one?
of vet work sits inside Cat Adoption Team's $125 to $225 adoption fee.Cat Adoption Team adoption fees
For most buyers, adopting is the right call. The fee is a fraction of what that same vet work costs retail, and an adult cat has already shown you its personality. Buying from a breeder makes sense when you need a predictable adult size or a known temperament that only a specific breed reliably gives you.
When adopting fits
Fee set by the shelterYou're open to adult cats as well as kittens, and you don't need a specific breed. Every shelter sets its own fee. Cat Adoption Team, for example, charges $125 to $225 and rolls spay/neuter, vaccinations, and a microchip into that feeCat Adoption Team adoption fees. You also get a cat whose personality is already visible. A kitten hasn't shown you its own yet.
When buying fits
Price set by the sellerYou need a specific breed for a real reason: predictable adult size, a known temperament around children or other pets, or show and breeding goals. Allergies are not one of those reasons. The American Academy of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology says that no truly hypoallergenic cat or dog breed existsAAAAI on pet allergy, and that coat length and shedding do not change it. Fel d 1, the protein most cat-allergic people react to, varies a lot from one cat to the nextPNAS Nexus (2024) on Fel d 1 genetic diversity, and within the same cat over time. If someone at home reacts to cats, spend time with that particular cat before you commit. You have also checked breed-rescue groups (rescues that take in one breed, like a Maine Coon or Persian rescue) and found no fit.
The one-off payment is the small part
Where the cat comes from changes what you pay on day one. It changes nothing after that. Food, litter, routine vet care, and supplies run for the rest of the cat's life, and together they outweigh any adoption fee or kitten price. Chapter 2 breaks the first year down line by line.
Leaning toward adoption?
Browse adoptable cats on Petmeetly's cat adoption hub. Already decided to buy? Read on.
What does a kitten really cost?
Nobody publishes what a kitten should cost. No cat registry and no veterinary body tracks purchase prices. The confident breed-by-breed tables you find online were invented by whoever needed to fill the page. What a seller asks depends on where you live, how the litter was raised, and what is included in the price. Those last two you can check, and they are the ones worth asking about.
What the price should already include
Ask for every line of this before you pay
- Vet health checkDone, with the clinic namedAsk for the record itself, not a description of it.
- VaccinationsAge-appropriate and documentedA card with dates and product names beats a verbal assurance.
- Worming and flea treatmentUp to date on the day you collectCheap, routine, and a fair test of how the litter was kept.
- MicrochipWhere local rules require oneCheck that it is registered, then transferred into your name.
- Both parents' health-test resultsIn writing, for the screens that apply to the breedChapter 3 lists which screens matter for which breeds.
- Registration papersOnly if the kitten is sold as a registered pedigreeBoth parents' numbers, checked with the registry that issued them.
- A written agreementPrice, what is included, and what happens if the kitten falls illAgree it before the deposit, not on collection day.
How to judge an asking price
Judge a price against work the seller has actually paid for. Four bills sit behind a well-raised litter:
- Health tests on both parents, for the screens that apply to the breed
- Vet visits, vaccinations, and worming for the whole litter
- Registration with CFA or TICA, the two main US cat registries (the Cat Fanciers' Association and The International Cat Association), where the kittens are pedigree
- Feeding a queen (a breeding female cat) through pregnancy and twelve weeks of kittens
Every one of those leaves paperwork, and you can ask to see it.
A price well under what other litters are asking is a warning sign, not a bargain. Ask which of those bills the price still covers, and verify before you pay. Chapter 4 shows what a kitten that does not exist looks like from the buyer's side.
First-year costs on top of the kitten
Vet visits and vaccinations
Initial visit, FVRCP series (the core 3-in-1 feline vaccine for viral rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, and panleukopenia), rabies, FeLV/FIV testing if not bundled.
Spay / neuter
Often free at low-cost clinics; bundled into adoption fees.
Microchip
Sometimes bundled with spay / neuter.
Setup supplies
Carrier, litter box, scratching post, beds, bowls, starter food and litter.
Ongoing food and litter
Per year, depending on diet and litter type.
Pet insurance
Per year. Optional, but increasingly common.
Sources: ASPCA Pet Insurance on cat ownership cost, Petfinder on how much a cat costs.
How can you tell a real cat seller from a fake one?
Real sellers will show you the mother cat (called the queen in breeding terms) and the kitten on a live video call, register their cattery with CFA or TICA (a cattery is a breeding program with a registered name prefix) when relevant, accept secure payments (credit card, PayPal Goods & Services), refuse to ship sight-unseen, and won't have a kitten available the moment you ask. Fakes fail every one of those tests.
The 8-flag verification checklist
The seller will do a live video call
Real sellers will show you the queen and the kitten together on a video call within 24–48 hours. Refusal is the single biggest red flag, because scammers can't take their own photos when they don't have any kittensPangoVet 8 vet-verified scam signs, and a live call exposes that fast.
Ask: "Can we do a 5-minute video call this week? I'd like to see the kitten with the mother, and have you say today's date out loud while the cat is on camera."
The kitten is at least 12 weeks old at pickup
Eight weeks is the absolute floor for leaving the queen and littermates. The CFA advises 16 weeks, and 12 at the very minimumCFA on kitten go-home age. Leaving the litter too early raises the risk of anxiety and aggression21Cats: can kittens be rehomed at 8 weeks?. A seller pushing an early handover may be putting speed ahead of careful placement.
Ask: "What's the kitten's date of birth? When will it be ready to come home?"
Registry papers, where they apply
For purebred sellers, CFA or TICA registrationTICA how to register a cat is the entity that actually verifies pedigree (the cat's documented family tree of ancestors) and breed standard (the official written description of what a perfect cat of that breed should look like). Mixed-breed kittens won't have papers; that's expected and not a flag. For purebred kittens it should be on the table: at minimum, the parents' registration numbers (official ID numbers issued by CFA, TICA, or a similar registry), ideally a registration application included with the kitten.
Ask: "Are the parents CFA- or TICA-registered? Can you share the registration numbers? Will the kitten come with a registration application?"
Health-test paperwork for the parents
Breed-specific screens that should be visible: PKD ultrasound or DNA for Persian, Himalayan, and British Shorthair; HCM echocardiogram for Maine Coon, Ragdoll, British Shorthair, and Sphynx; FeLV and FIV negative status for both parents (the AAFP recommends FeLV/FIV testing for all newly adopted catsChewy/AAFP kitten's first vet visit, and breeders should already have it on file for breeding pairs).
Ask: "Have the parents been tested for HCM/PKD/FeLV/FIV? Can you share the test results?"
Secure payment methods
Pay by credit card or PayPal Goods & Services, which give you a dispute process if the kitten never arrives. A bank transfer leaves a record, but banks rarely reverse a payment you authorized yourself. Wire transfers, gift cards, Venmo to friends-only, Cash App, and crypto (cryptocurrency such as Bitcoin or Ethereum) are payment-fraud signals because they can't be reversed.
If the seller insists on wire / gift cards / crypto: walk away. There is no version of this where it ends well.
The seller asks you questions
A real breeder vets the buyer too: indoor or outdoor, other pets, household composition, declawing intentions, intended diet. A seller who'll hand a kitten to anyone with cash is either a scammer or a kitten mill (a breeding operation that prioritizes profit over kitten welfare). Both are problems.
If they don't ask anything: ask yourself why.
Red flag: kittens "always available"
Legitimate breeders run a few litters a year and have waiting lists. Scammers always have a selection of kittens available right now for immediate purchaseCFA: could this kitten be a scam?, because the kittens don't actually exist.
If every breed is in stock today: it's a marketplace re-seller at best, a scam at worst.
Red flag: the price is too good
A pedigree kitten offered far below what every other litter of that breed is asking is a warning sign, not a deal. Registered kittens cost what they cost because the parents have been health-tested and the breeder is running a real program. Deposit scams lean on a tempting price, so treat a rock-bottom one as the cue to verify everything else.
If the price is implausibly low: do the full check before any deposit: live video call, parents' paperwork, seller identity, and a reversible payment method.
Questions to ask before any deposit
- Where can I see the kitten on a live video call this week?
- What's the kitten's date of birth, and when will it be ready to come home?
- Are the parents CFA- or TICA-registered? Can you share the registration numbers?
- Have the parents been tested for HCM, PKD, FeLV, and FIV (whichever apply for this breed)?
- What vaccinations has the kitten had so far, and what's the schedule for the rest?
- Will the kitten come with a written health guarantee against congenital defects?
- What's your return policy if the kitten is sick at the first vet visit?
- Can you provide references from previous buyers?
- What payment methods do you accept? (Walk away from anyone who insists on wire transfer, gift cards, or crypto.)
What does a sight-unseen kitten scam look like?
The classic kitten scam goes: a too-cheap purebred kitten on a polished cattery website, the "breeder" refuses video calls, demands a wire transfer or gift cards, then invents "shipping insurance" and "climate-controlled crate" upcharges after you've paid. The kitten never ships. The website usually disappears within weeks.
Anatomy of a fake cattery (five phases)
- 1
Recruit
You find a polished cattery website, often optimized for "[breed] kittens for sale near me" with stock copy and stolen photos. The price is far below what other litters of the breed are asking. Contact is email-only or a single mobile number. There's no physical address (or the address is a residential house in a state that doesn't match the phone area code).
- 2
Deposit
The "breeder" asks for a deposit (often $300–$800) to "hold" the kitten. They push for wire transfer, gift cards, Cash App, or crypto. They're warm, responsive, and answer your questions thoroughly, right up until you ask for a video call.
- 3
Fake shipping
After the deposit clears, you get a fake "shipping company" website with tracking that doesn't update. The shipping company asks for the remaining balance plus an "international transport license" or "USDA APHIS export certificate" fee. None of which is how kitten transport actually works in the US.
- 4
Fake insurance
Just before the kitten "ships," the fake shipping company emails: a "climate-controlled crate" or "non-refundable insurance" fee is required, $400–$1,200, refundable on delivery. They want it in gift cards. The pressure escalates: "the kitten is at the airport, we need this in the next two hours."
- 5
Vanish
The fake shipping company stops responding. The cattery email starts bouncing. The website goes offline within 2–6 weeks (so it can be re-spun under a different domain). The FTC recommends reporting it to ReportFraud.ftc.govFTC ReportFraud.gov and to the BBB Scam TrackerBBB Scam Tracker.
Real listing vs fake listing, side by side
What a real listing looks like
- Photos include the queen and the kitten together, or the kitten in the home environment with everyday objects in frame
- Multiple photos at different ages (8w, 10w, 12w) showing real growth
- The owner's first name and a phone number with an area code matching the listed location
- Price in line with the work behind the litter (health tests, vet care, registration)
- Reference to a waiting list, with a realistic earliest-pickup date
- Mention of registry, parent health-test results, or a written contract
- Owner answers detailed questions and asks you questions back
What a fake listing looks like
- Photos look professional and slightly inconsistent (often stolen from CFA/TICA breeder sites; reverse-image-search them before paying)
- Price far below other litters of the breed, usually labeled as "rehoming fee" or "moving sale"
- Email-only contact, or a phone number that doesn't accept calls (text only)
- Multiple breeds available right now, with kittens "ready to ship today"
- Pressure to pay a deposit immediately to "hold" the kitten
- Wire transfer, gift cards, Cash App, or crypto only; no credit card or PayPal Goods & Services
- Refusal to do a live video call ("we don't allow visits because of stress to the queen" is a common excuse)
The today's-date trick. Ask the seller for a 2-minute video call where they say today's date out loud while the cat is on camera. Stolen footage can't fake that. Real sellers have no problem with the request; fakes will refuse, change subject, or "have technical issues" with their camera. This same verification trick is documented in the cat-breeding hub for stud-cat verification; the same logic applies on the buyer side.
Reporting a scam. If you've sent money and the seller has gone dark, file a complaint with the FTC's consumer-fraud reporting toolFTC ReportFraud.gov, the BBB Scam TrackerBBB Scam Tracker, and your bank or payment provider.FTC consumer advice: getting a pet, avoid scams Wire transfers and crypto are typically unrecoverable; credit-card and PayPal Goods & Services charges can often be disputed if you act within 60–120 days.
What does the first week with a new kitten look like?
Schedule a vet visit within 48–72 hours of pickupAAHA new kitten checklist. Expect a physical exam, parasite screening (bring a stool sample), FeLV/FIV testing if the kitten is over nine weeksChewy/AAFP kitten's first vet visit, and microchipping. Keep a new kitten separated from existing cats until tests come back clean. Start litter, food, and play routines on day one; kittens settle fastest with predictability.
Day-by-day timeline
- Day 1
Bring the kitten home; set up a quiet base camp
- Confine the kitten to a single quiet room with food, water, litter box, scratching post, and a hidey-hole
- Don't introduce existing pets yet
- Start the food the seller has been feeding (any diet change waits a week)
- Schedule the first vet visit for Day 2 or Day 3
- Expect hiding, mild appetite loss, and quiet behavior, all normal Day 1 reactions
- Day 2–3
First vet visit
- Bring the kitten in a secure carrier with a familiar blanket
- Bring a fresh stool sample (the vet will check for giardia, intestinal worms, and other parasitesAAHA new kitten checklist; giardia is a single-celled parasite that causes diarrhea, and intestinal worms are tiny organisms that live in the kitten's gut)
- Bring vaccination records and any health-test paperwork from the seller
- Vet will examine eyes, ears, mouth, coat, and abdomen; listen to heart and lungs; weigh the kitten
- FeLV/FIV testing if the kitten is at least 9 weeks old
- Microchip if not already done; vaccinations as the schedule requires
- Expect to spend up to 90 minutes
- Day 4–5
Expand the kitten's territory
- Open the base-camp door for short supervised sessions
- If you have other cats, introduce by scent first (swap blankets between rooms) before any face-to-face contact
- Continue the seller's food; ramp up play time as the kitten gets bolder
- Watch for normal social behavior (curiosity, exploration) vs warning signs (hiding 24/7, refusing to eat, lethargy, repeated vomiting or diarrhea; call the vet for any of those)
- Week 1
Settling in
- Kitten should be eating normally, using the litter box reliably, and showing curiosity about the rest of the home
- If you're transitioning food, do it gradually over 7–10 days (25% new / 75% old, then 50/50, then 75/25, then 100% new)
- Schedule the next vaccination booster (typically 3–4 weeks after the first)
- Begin socialization to handling, carriers, nail trimming, and brief alone time; the socialization sensitive period closes around 7–10 weeks21Cats: can kittens be rehomed at 8 weeks? (the critical window when kittens learn to interact with people and other cats), so consistency early helps for life
Common first-week health issues: what's normal, what's not
Mild upper respiratory infection (URI)
Sneezing, watery eyes, mild congestion. Common in kittens from multi-cat environments. Usually resolves with rest and a humidifier; call the vet if breathing becomes labored or symptoms persist past 5–7 days.
Intestinal parasites
Roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, giardia, and coccidia are common in kittens. Often shows as soft stool or diarrhea. The first vet visit's stool test catches these; treatment is usually a single deworming dose or a short course.
Ear mites and fleas
Black, coffee-ground-like debris in the ears or visible flecks in the coat. The vet will treat at the first visit. Don't skip; fleas can transmit tapeworm.
Behavioral regression
Kittens taken too early (under 8 weeks) often hiss, swat, or refuse food in a new home, because the socialization period was disrupted21Cats: can kittens be rehomed at 8 weeks?. Patience and consistency over 2–4 weeks usually resolves it; persistent fear-aggression warrants a behaviorist or breed-specific rescue consult.