Counted from ovulation
Merck Vet Manual
Earliest safe age
AVMA literature review
Max PCR window
Cornell + Revival
Most first litters do not fail because of bad luck. They fail because the breeder skipped a step they could have measured. This dog breeding checklist is the step-by-step version of the AKC's responsible breeding guidance. Every item below is either a published standard or a number you can check. The checklists run in order, from the day you decide to breed through the day puppies leave at 8 weeks.
If you have not picked a breed yet, the best age to breed a dog post has the breed-by- breed age table. If you have picked a breed, the German Shepherd breeding guide walks through the same checklist from start to finish for one breed.
What is the complete dog breeding checklist?
The checklist breaks into 6 phases. Phase 1 (health clearances) takes the longest. Phase 2 (cycle timing) is the easiest to get wrong. Phase 6 (placement) is where most first-time breeders cut corners. Each phase has its own card below.
The 6 phases at a glance
- 1Pre-breeding clearances.6 to 12 months. OFA CHIC tests, brucellosis PCR, microchip, vaccines, temperament.
- 2Cycle timing and mating.2 to 3 weeks. Track the heat cycle, run progesterone tests, breed 2 days after the 5 ng/mL marker.
- 3Gestation and pre-whelp.63 days. Switch the dam to puppy food at week 5, get a pre-whelp X-ray at day 55, have the whelping kit ready by day 56.
- 4Whelping.6 to 24 hours. The temperature drop tells you labor is starting; keep your vet on call; know the red flags for a stalled birth (dystocia).
- 5Newborn care.8 weeks. Daily weight checks, deworming, first vaccine, socialization, vet check, microchip.
- 6Placement.Week 8 onward. Screen every buyer, sign a spay/neuter contract, keep a return clause, register the litter with AKC.
What pre-breeding health tests should be done?
Pre-breeding testing is the line between a planned breeding and an accidental one. The OFA Canine Health Information Center publishes the exact tests required for each breed. Most breeds need 4 core tests plus 1 to 3 breed-specific ones. The full panel takes 6 to 12 months because OFA hip and elbow scores cannot be final until the dog is past 24 months. Start the testing the day you decide to breed.
Pre-breeding checklist
- Microchip both dogs (ISO 11784/11785).Required for identity-linked health records and litter registration.
- Brucellosis blood test (PCR) within 30 days of breeding.Both stud and dam. Brucella canis spreads between dogs and to humans, and is passed during mating. Positive dogs cannot be bred.
- OFA hip evaluation at 24 months.OFA Fair, Good, or Excellent. PennHIP (a different hip-X-ray scoring system) is also accepted.
- OFA elbow evaluation at 24 months.Required for medium and large breeds and any breed with elbow dysplasia history.
- Cardiac evaluation by a board-certified cardiologist.Listening with a stethoscope (auscultation) at minimum; a heart ultrasound (echocardiogram) for Boxers, Dobermans, GSDs, Newfoundlands, and Cavaliers.
- Annual eye exam by a board-certified ophthalmologist (the CAER exam).Valid for 12 months only. Re-test before each breeding.
- Breed-specific DNA panel from OFA CHIC.PRA, DM, vWD, cardiomyopathy, MDR1 vary by breed. Check ofa.org/chic-programs/browse-by-breed.
- Vaccinations current (the DHPP combination vaccine plus rabies).Per the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) vaccination guidelines. Avoid live-vaccine boosters during gestation.
- Confirm dam age and cycle history.At least second heat cycle, 18 to 24 months minimum depending on breed size.
- Temperament evaluation.No fear-based aggression, severe anxiety, or major resource guarding. Per the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) position statement.
Brucellosis gets its own callout because skipping the test is the most common mistake first-time breeders make. AKC guidance and Cornell's testing protocol both call for a PCR within 30 days of every breeding for both stud and dam, with stud dogs re-tested every year. Brucella canis spreads between dogs and to humans, has no cure, and positive dogs cannot be safely bred.
When NOT to breed
- Failed OFA clearance: OFA Poor or Dysplastic hips, cardiac abnormalities, hereditary eye disease, or DNA-panel positive.
- Brucellosis positive: Zoonotic. No reliable treatment; remove from breeding immediately.
- First heat cycle or under 18 months: Skeletal and emotional immaturity. Per AKC and breed-club codes.
- Previous emergency C-section: Risk on subsequent pregnancies climbs sharply. Retire after one in most cases.
- Behavioral red flags: Fear-based aggression, severe anxiety, or resource guarding pass to puppies.
- Cannot commit to whelping logistics: Heated whelping box, 24/7 monitoring for week 1, vet on call, C-section budget.
How do you time mating with progesterone testing?
Getting the timing wrong by 48 hours is the most common reason a mating fails to produce puppies. The fertile window inside a heat cycle is only 4 to 7 days, and it is centered on the day she ovulates. A progesterone blood test at the vet is the only reliable way to find that day. AKC guidance and the Merck Vet Manual both define ovulation as the moment progesterone crosses 5 ng/mL.
Mating-timing protocol
- 1Mark proestrus day 1.Proestrus is the first phase of heat, marked by vaginal bleeding or visible swelling of the vulva. It runs 7 to 10 days; the dam will not accept the male yet.
- 2Start progesterone testing day 7 to 10.A blood progesterone test at the vet, repeated every 2 days. The level starts under 2 ng/mL and climbs sharply when she ovulates.
- 3Identify ovulation at 5 ng/mL.Ovulation (the moment her ovaries release eggs) happens when progesterone crosses 5 ng/mL. A quick microscope check of cells from the vaginal wall (vaginal cytology) confirms estrus, the standing-heat phase when she accepts the male.
- 4Breed 2 days after the marker.Eggs need 48 to 72 hours to mature after ovulation. Most reproductive vets recommend two breedings 48 hours apart so the fertile window is fully covered.
For natural matings, two breedings 48 hours apart will cover the fertile window safely. Frozen-semen artificial insemination uses different timing: breed 5 days after the LH hormone surge, when the eggs are ready to be fertilized. For the age window that goes with this timing protocol on your breed, see the best age to breed a dog guide. It has a reference table covering 50 breeds.
Whelping prep: the 7-day countdown
The week before whelping is when missing supplies turn into emergencies. The dam's rectal temperature is the most reliable signal that labor is about to start. Her normal temperature is 101 to 102.5F. When it drops to 98F or below, contractions will begin within 24 hours. Everything in the countdown below should be done before that drop happens.
7-day whelping countdown
- Day -7Pre-whelp X-ray at the vet.Around gestation day 55. Confirms puppy count and position before labor begins.
- Day -5Set up the whelping box.Length equals dam nose-to-tail plus 12 inches. Railed lip to prevent crushing. Ambient 85F via heating pad on one side only so puppies can self-regulate.
- Day -3Stock the whelping kit.Digital rectal thermometer, bulb syringe, hemostats, blunt-tip scissors, unwaxed dental floss, iodine, towels, puppy gram scale, puppy milk replacer, calcium gluconate.
- Day -2Confirm vet on call.Line up a daytime vet, an after-hours emergency clinic, and a pre-paid C-section budget. Flat-faced breeds (Bulldogs, Frenchies, Pugs) need a planned C-section, not an emergency one.
- Day -1Start twice-daily rectal temperature.Normal is 101 to 102.5F. A drop to 98F or below signals labor will begin within 24 hours.
- Day 0Move the dam to the whelping box.Once the temp drops, restrict her to the whelping area. Keep distractions out. Quiet, dim, warm.
The whelping kit list comes from Revival Animal Health's breeder supply guidance. The 1F temperature drop signal is also confirmed by VCA Animal Hospitals. For flat-faced breeds (Bulldogs, Frenchies, Pugs), book a planned C-section that week instead of waiting for natural labor.
What are the signs of dystocia and when do you call the vet?
Dystocia means a difficult or stalled birth. Cornell's veterinary college and Purina ProClub's dystocia overview both call it an emergency every time. Even with a C-section, 13 to 20 percent of puppies in a dystocia case do not survive, so there is no wait-and-see option. If you see any of the flags below, call your vet right away.
Dystocia red flags
- Strong contractions for over 1 hour with no puppy produced.Dystocia until proven otherwise. Vet call immediately.
- More than 2 hours between puppies during active labor.Same as above. Even if she seems calm between, this is not normal.
- Green or dark vaginal discharge before the first puppy.Placenta separated; puppy in distress. Call now.
- Total labor over 24 hours.Even with rest periods, 24 hours is the outer bound. Get her to the clinic.
- Visible puppy stuck for more than 10 minutes.Do not pull. Call the vet; risk of spinal injury or umbilical tear is real.
- Dam collapses, vomits repeatedly, or stops responding.Could be low blood calcium (hypocalcemia) or a torn uterus. Emergency.
Normal labor has three stages. Stage 1 (restlessness, panting, nesting) lasts 6 to 12 hours. Stage 2 (the dam actively pushing puppies out) runs from 30 minutes to several hours. Stage 3 is the placenta coming out, and the dam usually delivers one placenta after each puppy. Rest gaps up to 2 hours between puppies are normal. Anything longer than 2 hours is on the red-flag list above, and you should call the vet.
From newborn week 0 to placement at week 8
The 8 weeks between birth and placement run on a tight schedule of weight checks, deworming, vaccines, and the socialization window that opens around week 3. The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) published a literature review on socialization that explains why puppies need to stay with their dam and littermates until at least 8 weeks. Many US states also require an 8-week minimum by law.
Week 0
Birth + first 24 hours- Confirm every puppy nurses within 1 hour for colostrum.
- Weigh and band each puppy with a colored collar.
- Keep ambient temperature at 85F; puppies cannot regulate yet.
Week 1
Weight gain- Weigh every puppy daily at the same time.
- A 10 percent weight loss is a vet call, not a wait-and-see.
- Eyes and ears closed; no socialization yet.
Week 2
Eyes open- Eyes open between days 10 and 14; ears open by day 14.
- First deworming (fenbendazole or pyrantel) per vet schedule.
- Begin daily handling for 30 to 60 seconds per puppy.
Weeks 3 to 4
Weaning starts- Introduce gruel (puppy kibble soaked in puppy milk replacer).
- Second deworming.
- Sights and sounds enrichment: vacuum, doorbell, TV, kitchen noise.
Weeks 5 to 6
Socialization window opens- First puppy vaccine (DHPP) per AAHA schedule.
- Daily handling: nails, ears, mouth, paws.
- Introduce vetted humans of varied ages and appearances.
Week 7
Vet check + microchip- Vet exam: hernia check, heart auscultation, weight, temperament.
- Microchip each puppy (ISO 11784/11785) and register the chip.
- Photograph and document each puppy for the litter record.
Week 8
Placement-ready- AKC litter registration submitted (or your breed registry).
- Final vet certificate of health for each puppy.
- New-owner packet: vaccine record, microchip ID, contract, feeding notes.
Weeks 5 and 6 are when socialization moves from passive (sights, sounds, new surfaces) to active (handling, new people, new objects). The full guide to this period is the puppy socialization guide. Skipping it produces dogs who fail temperament tests at 12 months. Weeks 7 and 8 are the vet check, microchip, registry paperwork, and the new-owner packet.
How do you place puppies responsibly?
Placement is where a real breeder is different from a seller. A real breeder screens every buyer in writing, signs a spay/neuter agreement for pet-quality puppies, and keeps a return clause so a puppy can always come back. The checklist below is the standard application package used by AKC Bred with H.E.A.R.T. breeders.
Placement checklist
- Written application from every buyer.Home setup, prior pets, vet reference, hours alone per day, plan for emergencies.
- Spay/neuter contract for pet-quality puppies.Signed before placement. Some breeds delay neuter past 12 months for joint health.
- Return clause in writing.The puppy comes back to you if the home does not work out, for any reason. This is what makes you a breeder instead of just a seller.
- Vet certificate of health and vaccine record.Signed by your vet within 7 days of placement. Required by most state pet-lemon laws.
- Microchip transfer to new owner.Update the registry on placement day, not later.
- AKC or breed-registry papers.Litter registration done at week 8; individual papers transfer with the puppy or follow within 30 days.
- New-owner support window.Available for at least the first 60 days for feeding, training, and health questions.
If you list puppies on Petmeetly, the platform handles the buyer-facing parts: a verified profile, breed listing, location filter, and direct messaging. See how the breeding side works or browse the breeding directory to find studs and dams already on the platform.
Ready to find your match?
The checklist above only works if both dogs in the breeding pair meet the same standards. Browse verified studs and dams on Petmeetly, filter by breed and location, and check health certifications before you commit.
Responsible breeding is something you can plan, not something you gamble on. Every item in the checklists above comes from a published guideline at OFA, AKC, AVMA, Cornell, or the Merck Vet Manual. Work through them in order, and ask your vet anything you are not sure about. If you run the checks before mating, most problems with a first litter show up early, where you can still do something about them.
Frequently Asked Questions
What should you do before breeding your dog?
Before breeding, complete the OFA CHIC tests required for your breed (typically hips, elbows, cardiac, CAER eye exam, and a breed-specific DNA panel), run a brucellosis PCR on both dogs within 30 days of breeding, confirm the dam is at least on her second heat cycle and skeletally mature for her breed size, and have a stocked whelping kit and a vet on call before mating happens. Skipping any of these is the most common reason first litters fail.
How long is a dog's gestation period?
The average canine gestation is 63 days counted from ovulation, with a normal range of 58 to 68 days when counted from the breeding date. Ovulation timing makes the 63-day estimate accurate; calendar-counting from a single breeding date is not. A pre-whelp X-ray around day 55 confirms puppy count and position before labor begins.
What supplies do you need for whelping?
A whelping box railed to prevent crushing, a digital rectal thermometer, a bulb syringe, hemostats, blunt-tip surgical scissors, unwaxed dental floss, iodine, a heating pad that holds 85 degrees Fahrenheit ambient, a puppy gram scale, towels, puppy milk replacer, and calcium gluconate for slowing contractions. Have your vet's emergency number and a pre-paid C-section budget ready before the dam goes into labor.
When can puppies leave their mother?
Puppies should stay with their dam and littermates until at least 8 weeks of age. The AVMA literature review on socialization confirms 8 weeks as the earliest behaviorally safe placement age. Earlier placement increases bite inhibition failures, fear-based aggression, and resource-guarding issues that show up months later. Many US states also require an 8-week minimum by law.
How do you know if your dog is ready to breed?
The dam is ready when she is past her first heat cycle (typically the second or third, 18 to 24 months depending on breed size), has passed every OFA CHIC test required for her breed, has a negative brucellosis PCR within the last 30 days, and her progesterone has crossed 5 ng/mL signaling ovulation. Breed 2 days after the 5 ng/mL marker, not the day of, because the eggs need 48 to 72 hours to mature.



